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Propagation of Curry Leaf Plant

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Curry leaf plant can be grown from seeds, stem cuttings or from suckers around an adult tree.

The plant grown from seeds will be very slow, may be more than a year for the seedling to get established. The curry plant propagated by stem cutting and suckers are relatively quick to grow.

Plant propagation methods | How to grow curry leaf plant

Propagation of Curry Leaf Plant from Seed

Curry Leaf  Plant Berries Fruits
Curry Leaf Berries

Curry Leaf Plant Grown from seeds
Curry Leaf Plant
Grown from seeds
A new curry leaf plant can be easily grown from its seeds. The seeds germinates at temperature around 21°C (70°F).
  1. Pick berries when they are almost ripe, becoming black in colour.

  2. You can sow the whole ripe berry, but the germination will be slow and the success may be limited.

  3. It is better to squeeze the seed out of the fruit pulp and sow them in seed raising mix.

  4. Placing the seeds in a moist paper towel for a few days before putting them in soil will speed up germination.

  5. Cover the seeds with soil and place in warm place. The seeds will germinate in about 10 days. 

Propagation by Stem Cutting

Curry Leaf Plants Grown from Seeds
Curry Leaf Plant
Grown from Seeds
  1. Propagation by stem cuttings is the easiest way to get new curry leaf plant. But how to Get a Curry Leaf Cutting to Root? The steps are given below

  2. Fill a small pot with the rooting mix, which is a mixtures of peat or pertile and sand, and water well before planting. 

  3. Insert a pencil into the soil of the pot reaching up to 1 inch above the base. Take out the pencil. 
  4. Taking Cuttings
    1. Select a branch of the tree which is neither flexible or nor stiff, means semi-hard.
    2. From this branch take a cutting of pencil thickness (about 5 mm diameter) and about 5 inch long with 4-5 leaf sets.
  5. Cut directly above the highest bud and a slant cut just below the lowest bud. Remove the lower set of leaves leaving top 2-3 sets. Cut each of the upper leaves into half or less.
  6. Put the lower part of the cutting into the rooting harmone powder and shake off the extra powder. Push the cutting into the hole in the pot and firm it. Do not water it again. 
  7. Put the pot in a polythene bag or (zip-lock bag) and tie the top end and place it in shade. In about 10 days, you will see your cutting to grow new buds. Keep the pot in shade for a few weeks until you find that the stick has become quite firm in the soil, indicating the root growth.

Propagation By Suckers

Remove a sucker with its roots attached from a curry leaf palnt from your friend.
Plant this sucker in a pot or ground, water well and care as a new plant.

Bougainvillea Not Blooming

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The most common complaint on bougainvillea is that they stop flowering shortly after the plant they buy it from the nursery. It is so frustrating to see that the plant which was full of bright and attractive blossoms in the nursery has become dull. The natural question then comes to mind, "why my bougainvillea is not flowering? What has gone wrong?"

The reasons for a bougainvillea not blooming are the following:
  1. No Lighting
  2. Over-watering
  3. Overfeeding
  4. Re-potting
  5. Heavy Pruning

    How to Get Bougainvillea to Flower

    There are ways to force bougainvilleas to bloom by taking proper care of light, watering, fertilizing, pruning and re-potting.

    Related Articles:
    Growing Bougainvillea | Bonsai Bougainvillea Care | How to make Bougainvillea Bonsai | Training a Bonsai Bougainvillea | Bougainvillea Bonsai Pruning

    Bougainvilleas blooms in a pot
    Bougainvilleas Blooms
    1. Light

      1. The flowering of bougainvilleas depend on the amount of light the plants receive. If growing in shade, they will produce plenty of good dark green leaves, but they will not bloom.
      2. Put the plant indirect sun for at least eight hours daily for them to bloom their best.
    2. Watering

      1. To force bougainvillea into bloom, nurseries often withhold water for a few months. Then they water the plant heavily. The plant which was thinking that it was dying due to drought, will now think it has one last chance to propagate itself, so it blooms heavily to produce seeds.
      2. Bougainvillea are very drought-tolerant and thrive on neglect. So ow do you water the plant is quite important. Only water them when their leaves are withering.
      3. If growing in ground, you do not need to water them once they are established.
      4. A little wilting can be used to encourage a reluctant bloomer to flower. When little colorful flower buds start to appear, water more frequently.
      5. Never allow a bougainvillea plant in bloom to wilt severely, as this will greatly shorten the blooming time.
    3. Fertilizing

      1. Too much frequent nitrogen fertilizer encourages a bougainvillea plant to grow lots of vegetative parts like leaves and stems at the expense of buds. Only a  new plant needs a higher nitrogen fertilizer to help encourage good growth.
      2. Use a high-potash fertilizer, such as a hibiscus or tomato fertilizer during spring and summer.
      3. I feed my plants with a liquid feed high in potassium every 3-4 weeks. If the plant starts growing vigorously with big green leaves, then cut back on fertilizer.
      4. A tablespoon of Epsom salt can help.
      5. If nothing works, giving a dose of bone meals or super phosphate would produce new flowers in about 3 weeks.
    4. Repotting

      1. Bougainvilleas bloom much better when the roots have become pot-bound. Repot into a bigger pot ONLY when the health of the plant begins to suffer, otherwise shifting them into larger pots will encourage a large plant without blooms.
      2. I leave bougainvilleas in the same pots for many years.
      3. If you want to grow bougainvillea in ground, plant it in a pot and bury in the ground for root binding.
    5. Pruning

      1. Prune plants in early spring to encourage more flowers.
      2. When blooms finish for the season, cut it back by a few inches to force blooming. Heavy pruning will reduce the amount of blooms. 
    6. Age of the Plant

      As the plant matures, flowering will increase both in amount and duration. An older bougainvillea in a pot or ground will bloom more on and off for several months.

How to Grow Fenugreek : Guide to Growing Methi

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Fenugreek (Trigonella Foenum-Graecum) is an annual growing herb native to the Mediterranean and Western Asia. Fenugreek herb is not only very easy to grow from seeds in pots or ground, but is also extremely beneficial herb.

Its fresh leaves are used in some Indian dishes and veggie curries and seeds in curry powders. Methi leaves are used in Thepla, which are very popular in Gujarati meals, and are used for regular meals, breakfast and during travelling. India is the largest grower of fenugreek.

Fenugreek is known by various names like Methi, Greek Hay, Foenugreek, Fenigreek, Bird’s Foot, Hilba, Trigonella, Cow’s Horn, Goat’s Horn, etc

Plant Description

Fenugreek leaves
Fenugreek Methi Leaves
The fenugreek plant can grow to a height of 60 cm. It has three-lobed triangular leaves, hence the generic name trigonell. The plant produces yellow flowers which form beans containing fenugreek seeds. The fenugreek methi grows very quickly.
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Fenugreek Growing Guide


When to Plant

  1. Fenugreek grows well in spring to early autumn seasons. I have also grown it in winter in Sydney, but the growth is slow.
  2. In the areas of frost, it may be started indoors 5 weeks prior to the last frost of the season. 

Position

Fenugreek should be planted in full sun to part shade.

Soil

  1. Methi grows well in a neutral to slightly acid (pH 6.0-7.0) soil.
  2. Dig the ground to a depth of 25 cm and break big chunks of soil. Mix some river sand to make it free draining.
  3. Mix lots of organic material like compost and aged manure to make the soil fertile.

Pots or ground?

The fenugreek methi can be grown in any container or ground.The advantage of growing it in a pot is that it can be moved to indoors in the case of frost.

Methi Seeds
Fenugreek Seeds

Sowing the seeds

  1. The plant does not like to be transplanted after germination, so the seeds should be sown at the final place. Or you can sow seeds in biodegradable pots which can be put directly into the ground later on.
  2. Buy good quality seeds from garden shop or use the seeds from your previous crop.
  3. Sow seeds about 5 cm deep and 5 cm apart in straight line trenches for seed sowing. You can also sow the seeds in criss-cross patterns. In stead of sowing in trenches, you can just sprinkle the seeds on the bed and cover with soil.
  4. Water well and keep soil well-moistened.
  5. Seeds will germinate in 3-5 days.
  6. In the areas of frost, it may be started indoors 5 weeks prior to the last frost of the season. The seedlings can be transplanted outdoors when the soil temperature is around 15°C (60°F).
  7. I sow seeds every 2-3 weeks in the season, so that when the first set of plants die, I am having the next set to get fresh methi.
Methi Plants Growing in a Pot
Methi Plants Growing in a Pot

Watering

Keep the soil moist, but do not over-water.

Fertilizer

  1. Feed the plants with fish emulsion spray regularly.
  2. Fenugreek plants add nitrogen to the soil as broad beans do, so they are good to add nitrogen to the soil.

Harvesting Methi Leaves

Methi leaves will be ready to harvest within 3-4 weeks. I just chop the leaves from the top of the plants as and when I need it in the kitchen. This will encourage more growth and you will be able to harvest again fresh leaves after 2-3 weeks.

Harvesting Methi Seeds

  1. The plants will produce beans containing fenugreek seeds.
  2. If you want to make fenugreek seeds, continue feeding and watering till the plants start to die.
  3. Collect the seed pods and thresh them to extract the seeds. Leave the seeds in the sun to dry.
  4. Save the pods until you sow the seeds next time.
  5. Store the methi seeds can be stored in an air-tight container and keep in a dry, dark spot.

How To Store Fresh Methi Leaves For Long

  1. You can store methi leaves for many months almost as fresh as the new ones, with no change in their colour, taste or flavour. The method is given below:
  2. Harvest fresh fenugreek leaves from your plants or buy from the market.
  3. Chop the leaves roughly and wrap in aluminium foil lightly. Make 2-3 such packets.
  4. Put the packets in a Ziploc bag and freeze it.
  5. When you want to use the methi leaves, simply take out a packet, open it and wash and use.
  6. It is better not to wash the leaves before chopping to reduce the moisture, otherwise the leaves will rot in the fridge.

References

  1. Trigonella foenum-graecum information from NPGS/GRIN,  www.ars-grin.gov.
  2. V. A. Parthasarathy, K. Kandinnan and V. Srinivasan (ed.). "Fenugreek". Organic Spices. New India Publishing Agencies. p. 694.

How To Grow Papaya: Growing Papaya From Seeds

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Papaya (Carica papaya L.) grows in tropical and subtropical regions. It is a large single stem plant whose trunk is soft and does not have a bark.

Papayas are easy to grow from seeds, but needs proper care to get good fruits. In general, to grow papayas, lots of sunlight, lots of water and very good soil are needed.

The common names of papaya are Papaya, Papaw or Paw Paw (Australia, Spain), Papita (India), Mamao (Brazil), Ma Kuai Thet (Thailand), Du Du (Vietnam), Tree Melon, Malakor, Loko, etc.

When to plant papaya
Where to plant papaya
Growing papaya from seeds
Sowing papaya seeds
Pests, diseases and problems of papaya plant
Fertilizers for papaya plant
Pests, diseases and problems of papaya plant
Hows to make papaya seeds

Papaya Growing Guide

Papaya Tree Types

  1. There are three types of papaya tree: male (staminate) plants, female (pistillate) plants and bisexual (hermaphroditic ) plants.
  2. The male plant produces small tubular flowers with pollen held at the ends of long peduncles, while the female plant produce large flowers held at the ends of much reduced cyme. The bisexual plants contain both male stamens and female ovaries and can self-pollinate to produce fruits.

Plant Description

  1. The papaya is a large single stem plant whose trunk is soft and does not have a bark. It can grow up to 10 m (33 ft) high. The leaves of the tree are formed on the top of the trunk. The leaves are large with seven lobes. There are no branches on the tree, however, if chopped at the top, the tree produces 2 or more trunks, each producing fruits.
  2. The plants produce yellow, orange or white flowers. The fruits are very delicious with yellow or orange-red flesh.

Best Climate For Growing Papaya

  1. Papaya plant grows best in warm to hot climate, temperature in the range 21°C-32°C (70°F-90°F). Temperatures below 15°C (59°F) may reduce flowers, while at temperatures above
  2. 32°C (90°F), the flowers may drop. In both the cases, the production of fruits decreases.
  3. Papayas can be grown in USDA hardiness zones 9-11 and almost anywhere in Australia, India, etc. If prolonged frost, the papaya plant will die. This year, Sydney had a very cold winter, so my two papaya trees almost stopped growing any fruit and many of the leaves dropped.

Papaya Propagation

Papayas can be propagated from seeds and from semi-hardwood cuttings. Rooting from cuttings are not easy and success rate is limited. Growing papaya from seeds is very easy.

Where To Plant

  1. Papaya trees love sunlight and heat.
  2. The tree can grow in partial shade, but the plant will be weak and the fruits very few.
  3. You can grow papayas in garden bed or a container. Select the warmest area of your yard that does not flood during rains.
  4. If your area gets flooded after heavy rains, planting papaya trees on a 1 m high and 2 m diameter mound will help tree grow satisfactorily.
  5. The container should be very large, smaller containers will make the tree root bounded.

Papaya Seeds

Papaya Seeds for sowing
Papaya Seeds for sowing
  1. By looking at the seeds, one cannot say anything about the tree type it will grow. When the plant produces flowers, then only you can know whether it is male, female or bisexual type.
  2. Several years ago, when I was growing papaya, always one or two seeds would produce only male plant. Now-a-days the seeds from almost all the papayas bought from market are bi-sexual, so they produce fruits.

Soil

Papaya trees are very hungry, needing a nutrient rich free-draining soil with a pH 5 to 8. Mix lots of compost and aged manure in the soil. Add some river sand to make the soil free-draining.

Sowing Seeds

The seedling of papayas do not transplant well, so it is advised to plant them directly in the ground; or in large containers so the seedlings can be transplanted without damaging their roots.
You can purchase seeds from a gardening store or use your own seeds. I use seeds prepared from a papaya which I have eaten.
Papaya Male Flowers
Papaya Male Flowers

Papaya Female Flower
Papaya Female Flower
  1. Sow the 8-10 seeds into the soil about 1.25 cm under the surface and about 5 cm apart from each other.  Water well and keep the soil damp.
  2. The seeds will germinate in 3-5 weeks after planting. Gibberellic acid can be used to speed up germination. Remove the weak and damaged seedlings and keep only the very best. This is for the one plant. You may want to grow 4-5 papaya trees as you want to make sure that you have some females or bisexual plants among your seedlings.
  3. I see hundreds of papaya seedlings coming out of my garden beds and pots in Spring where I use my homemade compost. This is because I put the papaya skin along with seeds in the compost bin and many of the seeds are not decomposed. However, I do not use any of these seedlings and pluck them out of the soil.
  4. When the plants are about 1 m high, they will produce flowers. The male plants produce long thin stalks with several flowers. Female flowers are larger and near the trunk.
  5. Keep only one male plant for every 10-15 female plants. The hermaphroditic plants produce both male and female flowers which can pollinate themselves.
  6. Papaya plants should be planted at least 3 m away from other plants and buildings. The spacing between 2 papaya plants should be 2-3 m from each other.

Watering

  1. Papayas have large leaves which evaporate a lot of water. So water the plants regularly to produce good size fruits.
  2. Standing water may damage the plant. Over-watering is the most common cause of problems.
  3. Lack of water may drop flowers and young papaya fruits, reducing the number of fruits.
  4. Plants growing in well draining soils like sandy or rocky soils do not hold much water. So they should be watered every day during hot dry days.

Mulching

  1. Apply a layer of 5 cm of pine bark, wood chips or similar mulch around the trunk of the plant to reduce weeds and retain moisture. However, do not mulch closer than 20 cm to the trunk to avoid rotting.
  2. In winter, a plastic mulch will help keep the soil warm, but remove it when the weather becomes warm.
Papaya Paw paw Tree
Papaya Tree

Pollination

Bisexual papaya plants are self-pollinating or cross pollinated by wind, honey bees, butterflies, wasps, midges, thrips, flies, etc.

Pest, Diseases and Problems
  1. Papaya plants are susceptible to a number of diseases including papaya ringspot virus, papaya apical necrosisanthracnose, powdery mildew, phytophthora blight, corynespora leaf spot, etc.
  2. The leaves become distorted, their size is reduced, or yellow spots or yellowing on leaves on the leaves.
  3. Curling of leaves may due to picking of herbicide from a nearby lawn.
  4. Cold temperatures, lack of sun, lack of water or high winds will reduce papaya growth.
  5. Papaya plants have a very shallow root system. In the case of strong winds, the top of the tree may be blown away.
  6. Birds, bats and possums love papayas. You may pick the fruits when they start to change colour.
  7. Remove of dead leaves and keep the area clean.

Harvesting Papayas

  1. Green fruits may be harvested to be eaten as a vegetable curry.
  2. When the fruits are fully ripe they become yellow and super sweet.
  3. You can harvest when the fruits are semi-ripe to protect them from birds. They will ripe after harvesting.
  4. I cover the fruits by a cloth to let them ripen on the tree.

Fertilizers

  1. Papaya trees are nitrogen hungry, they need a lot of fertilizer. Chicken manure and compost are the best for papayas.
  2. Apply a complete fertilizer to growing plants every third week.
  3. Refrain from fertilizing the lawn around the papaya tree. The roots of papaya tree extends farther than its drip line, so excessive lawn fertilizer may damage the roots.

When Do Papayas Fruit

  1. Papayas fruit in the warm weather.
  2. A papaya tree starts flowering  after 7-8 months of planting.
  3. Young papaya plants produce most fruits.
  4. The older plants will produce less and smaller fruits. With the age, the plants grow very tall, so it gets harder to reach the fruit. It is better to plant new trees.

How To Make and Store Seeds

  1. Remove the seeds from a ripe good tasting fruit and rinse thoroughly.
  2. Place on a paper towel and place in shade to dry.
  3. Place the dried seeds in a plastic bag and store in the refrigerator for many years.

How To Grow Papaya In Cooler Climates

  1. Papaya cannot be grown outdoors in the areas of cool climates.
  2. You can, however, grow in a huge pot, and  keep the pot in a heated environment. But growing good fruits are doubtful.

References

  1. Fact Sheet HS11, Horticultural Sciences Department, Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences, University of Florida, 1986 - 2008.
  2. Papaya, www.crfg.org/pubs/ff/papaya.html
  3. Morton, Julia F. Fruits of Warm Climates. Creative Resources Systems, Inc. 1987. pp. 336-346.
  4. The Encyclopedia of Fruit and Nuts - Page 241 - Google Books
  5. Papaya - Department of Agriculture and Fisheries, www.daf.qld.gov.au/plants/fruit-and-vegetables/fruit-and-nuts/papaya
  6. Popenoe, Wilson. Manual of Tropical and Subtropical Fruits. Hafner Press. 1974. Facsimile of the 1920 edition. pp. 225-240.
  7. Samson, J. A. Tropical Fruits. 2nd ed. Longman Scientific and Technical. 1986. pp. 256-269.

Growing Lettuce : Planting and Harvesting Lettuce Plants

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Lettuce (Lactuca sativa) is easy to grow, kids enjoy planting and see it growing so quickly in 6-8 weeks after sowing. Lettuce comes in a variety of sizes, shapes and colours. Its leaves are used in salads, and the stems are used in Chinese cooking.

Lettuce can be grown in pots or ground starting from seeds outdoors or indoors.

Lettuce Types

The lettuce is classified into five types.
Lettuce Types- Butterhead, Crisphead, Looseleaf, Romaine, Stem lettuce
Types of lettuce
  1. Butterhead Lettuce It is a smooth, buttery textured sweet-tasting lettuce which forms a compact slightly flat head looking like an open rose. The diameter of a butterhead lettuce can be as large as 15 cm (6 inch) or more.
  2. Crisphead Lettuce (Iceberg Lettuce) It has crisp leaves which are tightly packed forming a solid spherical compact head, whose outer leaves are dark green and inner greenish white. This lettuce keeps longer than leaf lettuce.
  3. Looseleaf Lettuce It does not form a head, but consists of tight rosettes of individual leaves. The leaves are crisp and buttery-flavored. which can be smooth, curled, ruffled or oak-leaf shaped. The leaf color may be yellow, green, bronze, red or purple.
  4. Romaine Lettuce Romaine lettuce has a large head consisting of 20 cm (8 inches) long ribbed narrow leaves which are crisp, tender and sweet. The center of the head is a succulent heart surrounded by greenish-yellow inner leaves which in turn are surrounded by dark green outer leaves.
  5. Celtuce or Stem Lettuce It has a succulent, thick stem which can grow to 25 cm (10 inches) or more having soft green tender leaves at its end.

When To Plant

  1. Lettuce grows in cool season of spring and fall in most USDA Hardiness zones 4 to 9 and almost year round in Australia and India. It should be planted when the soil temperature is between 8°C and 27°C.
  2. You can sow seeds indoors 4 - 5 weeks before last spring frost date.

Where To Plant

  1. Lettuce can be grown in garden beds or pots or containers. Lettuce is a great vegatable for container gardening in as shallow trays as 10 cm (4 inch).
  2. Plant in part sun. Provide some shade to prevent them bolting to flower in the hot summer.

Soil

  1. Loose well-drained, sandy loam soil, slightly acidic having a pH around 6 and enriched with organic matter is good for growing lettuce. So break all the chunks of soil.
  2. Add river sand to make the soil free-draining and plenty of compost and cow manure to the soil for water retention.

Sowing the Lettuce Seeds

  1. It is better to sow the seeds directly in the ground, although the seedlings can also be planted.
  2. Sow seeds about 1 cm deep in rows or just sprinkle them.
  3. Water thoroughly.
  4. When the seedlings have four leaves, thin out the leaf lettuce to 10 cm (4 inches) apart, and Cos and loose-headed types 20 cm (8 inches) apart. If you have planted the firm-headed type, then keep them about 40 cm (16 inches) apart.
  5. The rows of plants should be 12 to 15 inches across.
  6. Use the thinnings as small salad greens.
  7. I sow seeds every two weeks for a continuous harvest throughout the growing season.
Lettuce Growing in a Pot
Lettuce Growing in a Container

Watering

  1. Lettuce is 90 percent water and has very shallow roots, so keep soil moist but not soggy. Soggy soil can cause bottom rot.
  2. I use sugarcane mulch to contain moisture and keep weeds away.
  3. As the plants are shallow rooted, take out the weeds carefully.
  4. Water daily in hot or dry weather to prevent bitter flavour and bolting.
  5. If the leaves are wilting, sprinkle them to cool down.

Fertilizer

  1. Lettuce prefers a steady supply of nitrogen to keep it growing fast. Use fish emulsion, alfalfa meal or a slow-release fertilizer every third week.
  2. Apply compost as a side-dress 2-3 times in the growing season.

Pests and Problems

  1. The pests such as aphids, earwigs, cutworms, white mold and slugs may attack the lettuce plants.
  2. Soggy soil and crowded plants can encourage bottom rot, turning the lower leaves grayish green or with dark brown spots and foul-smelling.
  3. To prevent diseases, avoid wetting the leaves when you water, water on sunny mornings, so the leaves can dry by evening.
  4. Mulch will prevent the leaves to come in contact with the soil, avoiding any disease.

Harvesting Lettuce

  1. Lettuce forms a low rosette of leaves like spinach in early spring, then produces a flower stalk in hot summer when it becomes bitter, so it should be harvested before flowering.
  2. Lattuce tastes best when eaten fresh and should be harvested before maturity as matured lettuce gets hard and bitter.
  3. The lettuce plants start to elongate and form a bitter sap just before bolting. If this happens, pinch off the top center of the plant.
  4. Morning is the best time to harvest before sun strikes the leaves.
  5. Harvest leaf lettuce by cutting outer leaves and let the center leaves continue to grow.
  6. Crisphead lettuce is removed when the center is firm.
  7. You can pick the outer leaves of the Romaine and Butterhead types when required for salad. They can also be harvested by cutting the plant about an inch above the soil surface, they will grow again.
  8. If the lettuce gets wilted, put the leaves in icy cold water and soak for 10-15 minutes.
  9. The refrigerated lettuce leaves keep good for up to 2 weeks.

Compatible Plants for Lettuce

Carrots, Beets, Florence fennel, Leeks, Onions, Radish, Strawberries, Marigold, Borage, etc
Do not plant with Celery, Parsley, etc.

Aloe Vera | How to Grow and Care for Aloe Plants

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Aloe vera (Aloe barbadensis) is a medicinally useful succulent plant which has been grown for thousands of years. The gel inside the leaf of this plant is used for treating burns, sunburns, rashes, itching and insect bites. The gel is also used for making the skin soothing and smooth and in many beauty products. However, the scientific evidence for its cosmetic effectiveness is limited.

Aloe vera is Aloe is a member of the lily family. Common names of Aloe species are Indian Aloe, True Aloe, Chinese Aloe, Barbados Aloe, Burn Aloe and First Aid Plant. In India it is known as Ghikwar in Hindi and Korphad in Marathi.

Following the step-by-step guide on growing Aloe Vera with information on taking its care, you can grow your own aloe plant easily, even in pot in doors or outdoors.

Growing Tips For Aloe Vera at Home

Aloe Vera Plant
Aloe Vera Plant

Spiral Aloe Vera Plant
Spiral Aloe Vera Plant

Aloe Vera Plant
Aloe Vera Plant

Position

Where should you plant an aloe Vera plant, in shade, sun, outdoors or indoors?
  1. As Aloe Vera is a semi-tropical plant it needs lots of sun light and temperature around 20-25°C (70 -80°F), but will not tolerate cold temperatures. 
  2. The aloe plant can tolerate full sun for longer period of time but I have observed leaf curling and browning in my aloe plants when placed in full sun in summers in Sydney.
  3. I have placed my pots outdoor where they receive direct sun for 3-4 hours in the morning and they are doing very well.
  4. During winter, the plant becomes dormant. It may be shifted to indoors during frost and snow.
  5. In USA it grows well outdoors only in USDA Zones 9 and 10, and indoors in other zones as a house plant.
  6. When growing indoors in pots, they should be placed in south or west facing sunny windows.

Soil

  1. Aloe vera plants grows well in sandy loose soil of pH between 6 - 8 as do all the cacti and succulents.
  2. Mix river sand and small size pebbles in the soil to make it loose and free draining.
  3. You can buy a special cacti soil from a garden shop.

Propagation of Aloe Vera

Planting from Seeds

  1. Aloe Vera can be grown from seed, but it takes a long time to germinate under greenhouse conditions and the success rate can be very low for home gardener.
  2. If you have bought a small plant from the nursery, then repot it in a new pot. The pot should have holes at the bottom to provide drainage. Do not choose a very large pot as aloe Vera prefers a crowded root system.

Propagation from Pups

  1. Generally aloe is propagated from existing plants with high success.
  2. Propagate aloe Vera from offshoots or baby aloe or pups developed at side of mother plant.
  3. When the offshoot begins to form leaves, it is ready to transplant. Carefully separate the baby aloe from the mother plant, allow to dry its wounded area of the offshoot.
  4. Dipp the cut end of the offshoot in rooting hormone powder and plant in a pot.
  5. The rooting hormone will accelerate the root growth, but it not essential.
  6. Water the plant to make the soil moist.

Propagation from Leaf Cutting

  1. Aloe vera can also be propagated by leaf cuttings. Cut a 10 cm (4 inch) part of a healthy aloe leaf and allow it to dry for 2-3 days in shade
  2. Insert the dried end of the cutting in soil to at least 1 inch inside. Moist the soil slightly.

Mulch

  1. The palnt should be mulched like stones or pebbles.
  2. Do not mulch with organic mulches which keep the soil moist all the time.

Watering Aloe Plant

  1. As Aloe Vera is a succulent plant so it is happy in dry and hot conditions. It does not need much water. Water only when the soil of the plant goes completely dry. Water the potted plants only little to make the soil moist.
  2. The plant stores water in its spongy leaves. Overwatering or watering too often will cause leaf rot, the plant may die.

Fertilizer

Aloe Vera plant does not need much fertilizer. You can fertilize with a small amount of diluted phosphorus rich liquid fertilizer in spring. Over-fertilization cac harm the plant.

Pests and Diseases

Aloe Vera is generally resistant to pests and diseases.

References

  1. Reynolds, Tom (Ed.) (2004) Aloes: The genus Aloe (Medicinal and Aromatic Plants - Industrial Profiles. CRC Press. ISBN 978-0415306720
  2. Kemper Center for Home Gardening: Aloe vera", Missouri Botanic Gardens, USA.
  3. www.mobot.org/gardeninghelp/PlantFinder/plant.asp?code=B628 "BBC Gardening, Aloe vera, British Broadcasting Corporation, www.bbc.co.uk/gardening/plants/plant_finder/plant_pages/7686.shtml

Growing Nasturtium : How to Plant, Grow and Care Nasturtium

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Nasturtium (Botanic name: Tropaeolum majus) flowers are very attractive, colorful, fragrant and useful in the garden.  The make beautiful cut flowers with pretty fragrance. They attract bees in the garden and lure and trap aphids in the garden. Nasturtium is an annual plant whose leaves and flowers are edible.

Nasturtiums are very easy to grow. They need minimum care, actually they don't need any care.

Nasturtiums are good for containers or as ground covers with their bright green, umbrella-shaped leaves and vibrant flowers in shades of orange, red and yellow. The flowers are of single, semi-double or double. They look very good in hanging baskets. Kids love to plant nasturtium.

How To Grow Nasturtiums From Seeds

Position

Plant seeds in early spring in moist, well-drained soil in full sun. They can grow in partial shade, but they will not bloom well.

Soil

Nasturtium grows well in any soil but prefers a well-drained soil. So add some river sand in the soil to make it free draining. No need to add any fertilizer. A poor soil will produce more and bigger flowers.

Planting and Care

Sowing Seeds

  1. Sow from spring to early autumn in warm areas, and n spring in cold areas.
  2. The nasturtium seeds should be planted directly into their permanent location, as the plants do not transplant well.
  3. Plant the seeds about half an inch deep and 10 inch apart. The seeds will germinate in about 10 days. You may soak the seeds overnight to speed up the germination.
  4. Place a trellis near the nasturtium plant to train the vines to climb. I just leave the vines to cover the ground with colorful foliage and colored flowers.
  5. You can start the seeds indoors in peat pots or paper pots, about 4 weeks before the last spring frost. These pots can be planted into the ground without disturbing the roots of the seedlings.

Nasturtiums flowers
Nasturtiums Flowers

Watering

Water regularly throughout the growing season, but do not over-water.
Cut the dead flowers to prolong blooming.
Nasturtium Plant
Nasturtium Plant

Pests and Problems

Aphids, caterpillars, slugs, whiteflies, flea beetles an slug are the problems.
Fertilizer: No need of fertilization. Fertile soil will produce more leaves and fewer blooms.

Collecting Seeds

Nasturtium Seeds
Nasturtium Seeds
  1. When the flower finishes, let the seeds dry out on the plant. Cut out the chick-pea size seeds when the flowers die. Collect, dry and store the seeds in a paper envelope in a cool and dark place.
  2. Use these seeds for growing in the next season.
  3. In my garden in Sydney, the nasturtium plants come every year without planting them as the seeds from the previous year's plants fall in the ground and they germinate easily.

Growing Money Plant: How to Plant, Grow and Care Money Plant

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Money plant (Epipremnum aureum) is a popular houseplant that is grown indoors mostly in water. It is believed that having money plant at home brings good luck, happiness, wealth and prosperity. Money plant is also known by many other names such as golden pothos, silver vine, devil's ivy, Solomon Islands ivy, hunter's robe, ivy arum, taro vine, etc.

Money plants are evergreen climbers that can grow up to 20 m (66 feet) high, requiring no extensive care. They are very easy to grow without much care, both in soil and water filled bottles, jars and any container. I have also grown money plants inside old fused bulbs. These bulbs hanging from a thread looks amazing showing the plant's green leaves along with white root system inside the bulb. The money plant can be grown as an indoor or outdoor plant.

Having money plant at home brings good luck, happiness, wealth and prosperity
Money Plant brings good luck, happiness, wealth and prosperity.

Growing a Money Plant

Money plant Growing in a Pot propagated from a cutting.
Money plant Growing in a Pot
Money plants do not need much care if you do not overdo anything like sunlight, water and fertilizers.

Some tips for caring a money plant are given below to grow it faster.
When to plant
You can plant it in any season anytime.

Where To Plant

Money plant can grow in both direct and indirect sun light. However, too much direct sun light can turn the leaves yellow and even burn them. I have palce my money plant in a shaded verandah where it receives only indirect sun  light and it is growing very well

Propagation of Money Plant

Money plant is very easy to propagate.  Money plant can be planted in any season. The plant is propagated from stem cuttings. It can be grown in both soil and water.

Growing A Money Plant in Water

  1. Select a healthy branch, about 30 cm of a money plant vine.
  2. Cut the branch at 45 degree angle above a node, taht is the point from where leaves emerge. The branch
  3. should have minimum 2-3 nodes on it.
  4. Put the cutting in a container like a galss or plastic bottle, glass of water, old electric bulbs, jar filled with clean water.
  5. Keep at least one node below the water level.
  6. Put the container in shade. You can hang the bottle so that the branches fall down.
  7. New roots will grow at the nodes in a few weeks.
  8. Keep changing water when it becomes turbid, may be once a week.

Growing A Money Plant in Soil

First method
  1. Select a medium sized pot with holes at the bottom to provide good drainage. The growth of the plant depends on the pot size.
  2. Fill the pot with a free-draining soil. Actually any soil will do.
  3. Make a hole in the soil and in sert the node of the cut stem (as above) and fill the hole with the soil.
  4. Watering: Water well once the roots are formed to grow it faster. Allow the soil to dry out between two waterings. I water my plant in about 10 days.
  5. Overwatering will cause roots to rot. Leaves turning yellow and curling up is the sign of excessive watering.
  6. Put a stick in the soil, so that the vine can climb.
Second method
  1. To help the plant to grow faster, first put the cutting in water as above and let the roots develop. Then transplant it in soil.

Fertilizer

Normally, no fertilizer is necessary. However, you can give a liquid nitrate based feed occasionally.

Pruning

  1. Remove dry or yellow or dead leaves and branches to encourage new growth.
  2. Cutting the tips of the growing branches encourage new branches and more dense foliage. 
  3. Continue cutting the extra leaves to keep plant in shape.

Growing Guava Plants How To Grow And Care

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Guava (Botanical name : Psidium guajava) is a tropical tree, producing sweet fruits which are eaten as a fruit or used as an ingredient in drinks, smoothies and desserts.

The common names are guava, amrood, jamphal, goiaba, guayaba, djamboe, djambu, goavier, etc.

Learn how to grow guava from seeds, cuttings and layering in pots and ground.


Guava Fruit
Guava Fruit
The guava tree is a highly attractive tree. The leaves and flowers are both mildly fragrant and attractive. The tree produces white 1 inch size flowers.

The fruits are about 5 inches in diameter; either oval, round or pear shaped and the ripe fruit has a rich pungent smell which spreads quickly in the house.

 The fruit has white, pink yellow flesh having seeds at its center. The taste of the fruit varies from sour to sweet, depending on its variety.

The Guava Varieties

  1. The common or Apple guava (Psidium guajava) has fruit that typically ripen as a yellow color. It is the most frequently eaten species.
  2. The Strawberry guava (Psidium littoral) has a red colored outer skin, and has strawberry-like flavor fruit, generally smaller than the common guava.
  3. The Pineapple Guava or Feijoa (F. sellowiana) has attractive flowers and larger sized fruits.

Guava Growing Tips

Position : Where To grow

  1. Guava plant needs full sun to part shade to grow, however, it cannot withstand too much heat.
  2. The guava plants have very little tolerance for cold. The plant will drop all the leaves in winter. The new leaves start to grow from the begining of spring.

Planting in Pot or Ground

  1. Guavas can be planted in pots and ground as well. If you are planning to grow it in a container, then select a big pot, at least 30 cm (12 inch) pot, bigger is better. The potted guava plant can be pruned in early summer to keep the size compact. Transfer the young guava plant every spring into a larger pot.
  2. The pot should have good drainage holes at the bottom, which is important to protect the roots.
  3. The guavas planted in ground grows into big tree, up to 30 feet in height. The fruits in these trees become difficult to pluck as they grow to very high branches. So I am growing guava in the container.

Soil

Plant your guava in a rich free-draining soil having a pH 4.5-7.0. Add lots of compost and manure to the soil and some river sand to make iot free draining.

Planting

Guava can be propagated by seed, grafting, and air layering. For commercial cultivation, it is  grafted onto a established root-stock.

Growing From Seeds

  1. The guava started from seed, will not produce fruit for many years. To speed up the germination, soak the seeds in water for 10-15 days, or boil them for 5 minutes before sowing. The seeds will germinate in 3-8 weeks.
  2. Transplant the seedlings when 2 to 30 inch (5-75 cm) high.
  3. I, in Sydney bought a small plant propagated from layering method and planted it in a 30 cm size pot. After 2 years it has grown quite big so I transferred it into a 75 cm pot.

Watering

Guavas prefer regular deep root watering, allow the soil to dry out somewhat between waterings. Provide regular water during the growing season, and reduce watering during the winter.

Mulch

Mulch with 2-6 inch (5-15 cm) of wood chips, bark to retain soil moisture. Keep the mulch-10 inch away from trunk.

Fertilization

Fruits Growing on a Guava Tree
Fruits Growing on a Guava Tree

Guava Flower
Guava Flower
  1. Guava tree is is heavy feeder, should be fertilized every 1-2 months, thereafter 3-4 times a year.
  2. Guava trees need a fertilizer high in nitrogen, phosphorus, potash and some magnesium for maximum fruit production. Mix 6-6-6-2 fertilizer into soils beginning of the growing season and then 3-4 times during the growth period.
  3. Apply a fertilizer high in potash and potassium to increase fruit production.
  4. I feed with a liquid fertilizer throughout the growing season.
  5. Guava trees become iron deficient in alkaline and high pH soil. Fertilize 1-2 times with iron sulphate each year.

Guava Flowers and Pollination

  1. Guava tree has perfect flowers with male and female parts in each flower.
  2. Honeybees pollinate the guava flowers.
  3. If there are no bees in your area, then you may hand pollinate the flowers. Use a very small  paint brush and tickle the inside of flowers.
  4. Spray your guava tree a 5 % solution of urea mixed with a wetting agent just before flowering. When the urea spray dries, then water the plant. This will increase the duration of fruit production.

How to Make a Guava Tree Bear Fruit

  1. If your guava tree has matures and not flowering then you can encourage the tree to flower.
  2. Allow the tree to dry out for 2-3 weeks and prune the tips of the branches to stimulate new growth. Guava will flower on the new growth.
  3. Water restriction causes the tree to begin reproduction defense mechanisms that result in flowering.

Pests and Diseases

  1. Young guava are attacked by a number of pests including aphids, guava white fly, mealy bugs, moth, scale and thrips. Treat early. I cover the fruits with a paper bag to prevent fruit fly.
  2. The guava tree is attacked by a number of diseases like anthrcnose, red alga, and leaf spots. Pruning the tree to increase air circulation will be beneficial. Regular copper spray, pest oil spray or insecticidal soap can control the disease.
  3. Sometimes, ants crawling on the guavas may be problem. Use Boric Acid Ant Baits to control ants.

Pruning

Prune the new plant at 1-2 feet length to produce new lateral branches. Allow such 3-4 branches to grow to 2-3 feet. Then cut the tips of these branches to grow more branches. Remove the weak branches. The tree in this way will become dense with a good canopy.

Protection Form Low Temperatures

To protect guavas from freezing temperatures, cover with a blanket at night or put Christmas lights on them when there is a threat of frost.

References

  1. Jonathan Crane and Carlos Belerdi, Guava growing in Florida Home Landscape, www.growables.org/information/TropicalFruit/documents/GuavaGrowingInTheFloridaLandscape.pdf
  2. Guava - An American Exotic, okeechobee.ifas.ufl.edu/News%20columns/Exotic.Guavas.htm
  3. California Rare Fruit Growers. Tropical Guava (Fruit Facts).  Fullerton, CA: CRFG, 1996.  www.crfg.org/pubs/ff/guava.htm

Growing Croton Plants

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Crotons (Codiaeum variegatum) is a very popular house plant in tropical and subtropical climates because of their brilliant leaves in red, yellow, green, purple, orange and mixed colour all year round.

Croton plant propagation techniques are described to grow crotons from cuttings indoors and outdoors.

Croton Plant growing in a pot
Croton plant growing in a pot
Crotons plants are grown as an indoor or outdoor in indirect sunlight in most climates.

Too much sunlight bleaches the colors of the leaves.

Croton Plant Propagation Techniques


Propagation of crotons plants is quite easy by stem cutting or air layering. A new croton plant can be grown by taking a cutting and putting in soil or water to root.
Rooted Crotons bya  Cutting
Rooted Croton by Cutting

Rooted Crotons by Cutting
Rooted Croton by Cutting

Growing Crotons From Cuttings

You can take cuttings for propagation at any time during the growing season.
Plant Propagation methods

Following is a step-by-step guide on how to grow and care a croton plant from a cutting.
  1. Cut a stem of 5-6 inch length (pencil size) at 45-degree angle from an actively growing healthy and mature croton bush using a pair of clean, sharp pruning shears. The cutting should be slightly woody (semi hardwood) and have at least three sets of leaves at the top. The cut should be at an angle of 45 degrees just below a leaf joint.
  2. Remove all the leaves at the bottom and cut all the top leaves into half or less.
  3. Take a small pot and fill it with equal part of river sand and and peat moss or vermiculite. If you don't have peat moss or vermiculite, you can try a mix of river sand and potting mix. Water well and keep aside for an hour to drain out the excess water.
  4. Dip the cut end of the cutting in a rooting hormone. You can skip this step if you don't have a rooting hormone. The rooting hormone quickens the root formation and increases the success rate.
  5. Make a hole with a pencil in the soil in the pot and insert the cutting into the soil. You can put 3-4 cuttings in different holes in the same pot.
  6. Cover the pot with plastic to create a greenhouse atmosphere. I put the pot in a polythene bag and tie it at the top to contain the moisture.
  7. Place the pot in shade where temperature is at 20-25°C.
  8. Open the bag after 5-7 days and see if the pot needs water, mist the soil if it begins to dry. Overwatering will rot the cutting. Daily watering is not needed as there are no roots as yet.
  9. Croton cuttings take about 4 weeks to develop new roots and new leaves start to emerge.
  10. Remove the pot from the bag and place it in shade for another 8-10 weeks.
  11. Transplant the rooted croton cuttings in bigger pots filled with a soil mix as above.
  12. Place the new croton plant in partly shaded place or filtered sunlight.
  13. Keep the plants well watered.

Growing Crotons in Water

Propagating croton plant in water is very easy, as easy as taking a cutting and putting it in water.
  1. Take a cutting 6 to 12 inch long and as thick as a pencil from the top of the plant.
  2. Cut the lower leaves leaving the growing tips intact.
  3. Place the cuttings in a pot of water at about 20-25°C. Keep the pot in shade indoors or outdoors.
  4. Roots will form in about 5-6 weeks when you can transplant the cutting in a pot filled with a soil mix containing equal parts of compost, manure and river sand.

Growing Crotons be Air Layering

In this method of propagation technique, the stem is rooted while it is still attached to the plant. take a branch which is in indirect sun light.
  1. Make a diagonal cut through one-half the diameter of the stem and insert a toothpick in the cut to keep it opened.
  2. Apply some rooting hormone on the wound.
  3. Cover the cut area with damp sphagnum moss and wrap with a polythene to keep the moisture inside.
  4. If the sphagnum moss turns to a tan color, it means that it is becoming dry. Temporarily remove the covering, mist the moss and wrap it again.
  5. After a few weeks, the stem will develop roots and new growth will start.
  6. Cut the branch and plant the new rooted branch in a pot filled with soil.

Growing Peas : Planting, Caring and Harvesting Pea Plants

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Peas (Botanical name: Pisum sativum) are one of the easiest vegetables to grow in home garden.

Peas grow well during the cooler months of the year, temperatures below 24°C (75°F). In USA, they can be grown in USDA hardiness zones 3 to 11.

Find below details on how to grow peas starting from seeds in pots and garden and care instructions.
Peas are easy to grow, children love to grow them. They produce very beautiful flowers that add colors to the garden.The peas have a very limited growing season. They may be planted in garden beds for a colorful display and good harvest, but you can also grow them in a large container, preferably rectangular.

Peas Flowers
Peas Flowers

How To Grow Peas From Seeds

Following are some tips for how to grow peas for home gardeners.

Pea varieties

Three types of peas can be grown in your home garden. They include sweet peas (inedible pod) , snow peas (edible flat pod with small peas inside) and snap peas (edible pod with full-size peas).

They come in dwarf and vine varieties.

Soil

Peas need well-drained, compost-rich soil. Dig the soil well and mix lots of compost, preferably mushroom compost and some lime.
Sprinkle and mix some wood ash to the soil.
Do not add any manure in the soil as it can add too much nitrogen which is responsible for the  weak growth of the plant.

When to Plant

In Australia, peas can be planted from April to September. You can plant peas from late summer to late winter. Best planted at soil temperatures between 8°C and 24°C (46°F and 75°F). In Australia, peas can be planted from April to September.

Peas Plants Growing
Peas Plants Growing

Sowing Seeds

  1. Peas are not grown from seedlings. Sow the seeds.
  2. Buy seeds from your local garden shop.
  3. Sow seeds in a sunny place about 1 inch deep and 2 inch apart in damp soil.
  4. Watered after sowing and then do not water again until the seeds are germinatged in a couple of days. You can soak the seeds overnight in water to speed up the germination. 
  5. Water regulary, but overwatering will rot the seeds and plants. However, do not let plants dry out, otherwise very less number of pods will be produced.
  6. The peas vines need support to climb when growing. I use small branches chopped from trees. You can also make a wire netting or string support between bamboo sticks or put trellis at time of planting.
Peas Pods on Vines
Peas Pods on Vines

Fertilizer

  1. Generally peas don't need too much fertiliser if you have mixed compost and manure in the soil before planting. The plants sensitive to too much nitrogen, but like phosphorus and potassium.
  2. You can apply a liquid feed high in potassium like comfrey tea to increase flowering.
  3. You may give a side dressing of bone-meal for phosphorus.

Pests, Diseases and Problems

  1. Aphids, Mexican bean beetles, wilt and mildew are the common problems for pea plants. 
  2. For pests control, use a neem spray.
  3. To control the fungul disease, keep pea vine leaves as dry as possible. 
  4. Spray leaves with a milk solution by mixing 1 part full cream milk to 9 parts water.
  5. Mulch the vines.
Peas Pods
Peas Pods

Harvest and Storage

  1. Once the peas start growing, the question is when to harvest them?
  2. When the pods are swollen, you can harvest them. Just open a pod to see iof it ahs good peas inside. Note that the pods on the lower part of the plant mature earliest.
  3. Harvest pea pods regularly to encourage more pods to develop.
  4. Peas are crispiest in the morning after the dew has dried. So pick them in the morning.
  5. Place the peas in a paper bag and put in a plastic bag which can be frozen or kept in the refrigerator for about 5-7 days.

Additional Tips

  1. Do not throw away the pea plants when they finish. Just dig the plants into the soil because they add nitrogen to the soil.
  2. Peas are grown in the same bed with potatoes.

Propagation Of A Rubber Tree Plant : How To Start A Rubber Plant

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Rubber tree (Ficus elastica) plants, also known as Rubber fig, rubber bush, rubber plant, or Indian rubber bush, grow best in warm and bright conditions. They look great with their dark colored glossy ovate leaves and treelike growth habit and are best for growing indoors.

Propagating a Rubber Tree Plant From Cuttings


How to care rubber tree plant

Propagating rubber tree plants is easy, though somewhat tricky. My indoor rubber tree plant grew very tall, touching the ceiling, so it needed to be pruned.
I chopped off the top growing branch and made cuttings out of it to re-root new rubber plants.

Keep reading to learn how to propagate a rubber tree so that you can give your friends a free rubber plant.

When to re-root

Spring to summer when the tree is actively growing.

Preparing Soil For Rubber Plant Propagation

  1. Fill a small pot with a well draining soil. I mix potting mix with river sand in equal quantity to make the soil for propagation. Water well and press the top soil until the water stops coming out from the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot.
  2. Push a stick in the soil and take it out to make a planting hole, slightly larger than the stick diameter. Keep the pot aside in shade.;

How To Take Cuttings From A Rubber Plant

  1. The next important step on how to start a rubber tree plant from cuttings is to take a good cutting from the tip of a vigorous rubber plant stem. Tip cutting is easy to root.
  2. Cut a 6 inches long branch from approximately half inch below a leaf set, having at least two sets of leaves (nodes) of length 4 inch or less. Remove the bottom leaves and cut the other leaves into half. When cut, the rubber plant oozes a milky sap. which is irritating, so wash immediately if it comes in contact with the skin or eyes. Wash off the milky white sap from the cuts with running water.

Steps For Starting A Rubber Plant

Rubber tree plant propgation: Rooted cuttings of rubber tree plant
Rooted cuttings of rubber tree plant 
  1. Dust the leafless end of the cutting in a rooting hormone and insert it in the hole (bottom node in the soil). Put soil around to fill the hole. Do not water.
  2. Put the pot in a clear polythene bag and tie the top of the bag so that the cutting remains in high humidity environment.
  3. Place the pot in a warm place in indirect light. In 3-4 weeks, the rubber tree cutting will develop roots. Gently tug on the base of the stem and feel for resistance, which indicates that some roots have formed.
  4. You may see the roots coming out from the hole at the bottom of the pot.
  5. At this stage remove the covering, but still keep the pot in shade. Water lightly.
  6. Wait for the new leaf to grow fully. Shift the pot in a place which receives morning sun. Keep there for 4-5 weeks, keep the soil damp. Then transplant the plant into a bigger pot.
Note
You can start 3-4 cuttings in the same pot and later on separate each one with care when new shoots emerge. The picture shows 4 cuttings rooted in the same pot.

Air Layering for Propagation of a Rubber Tree


Air layering is another method to propagate a rubber tree plant. In this method of rooting, you do not cut the stem but leave the cutting on the tree while it is rooting.
  1. The first step in propagating a rubber tree with air layering is to choose a stem, at least 12 inches long.
  2. Choose a healthy portion of the stem where you wish to root the stem and remove any leaves immediately above and below the portion.
  3. Carefully remove a 1 inch wide strip of bark around the stem using a sharp knife.
  4. Scrap all the soft part in the ring, leaving the hard wood intact in the center.
  5. Dust the ring with rooting hormone and cover it with moistened sphagnum moss.
  6. Cover the sphagnum moss fully with a polythene covering.
  7. New roots will grow in 3-4 weeks time in the covered ring of the stem of the rubber tree. Cut the rooted stem from the mother plant and repot the new plant.
  8. Variation: Make a cut about halfway through the stem and insert a toothpick to keep it open. Dust some rooting hormone in the cut and cover it with moistened sphagnum moss and wrap in a polythene cover.

How To Care A Rubber Tree Plant

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The rubber tree plant (Ficus elastica decora) is a favorite houseplant due to its attractive thick, large, glossy dark green leaves, besides it is considered an air purifying plant. It is known by different names as rubber fig, Indian rubber bush, rubber bush, rubber tree, etc. It is grown around the world as an ornamental plant outside or indoors.

The rubber plant oozes a milky white latex sap when its stem or leaf is cut. This latex was formerly used to make rubber, but it is not the tree for making rubber for commercial purpose. The latex is an irritant to the skin and eyes and toxic if taken internally.

The plant can grow very tall under the right conditions with very little care. My rubber plant touched the ceiling of the room and turned horizontally so ultimately I had to chop it.

Following are the key points on how to grow and care a rubber tree plant, actually its care is very easy.

Rubber Tree Plant Care

Caring a rubber tree house plant is quite easy if you care for soil, light and water requirements. You can buy a small rubber plant from nursery or make one by propagation from cuttings (growing a rubber tree from cuttings).

Light


Light and heat are the most important factors on how not to kill a rubber plant kept indoors or outdoor.
Rubber Tree
Rubber Tree
  1. Position your rubber plant in bright indirect light, but never in hot sun, especially afternoon sun. Otherwise, the leaves will eventually fall off.
  2. When the new leaves are emerging, less light is preferred to promote larger leaves.
  3. Do not shift your rubber tree plant quite often from warm to cool environment as it is very susceptible to such changes.
  4. Keep your rubber plant away from heat sources.

Soil

Use well-drained potting mix suitable for houseplants or made by mixing river sand to the potting mix in equal quantity.

Water

  1. Correct watering is the most important thing in keeping the rubber plant healthy and growing. Keep your plant moist when the plant is growing in spring and summer, but on the dryer side during other time.
  2. The top soil should feel dry to the touch before watering. Add water to the pot until it drains from the bottom into the saucer. Empty the drained water from saucer.
  3. Keep moist in growing periods. But water only once or twice a month during the dormant period.
  4. Do not over-water. Too much watering will turn the leaves yellow and fall off. Remove any dead leaves. Over-watering can cause drooping all the leaves in a short time. If this happens, it means the roots have started rotting. To revive the plant, prune the plant keeping at least one set of healthy leaves and don't water until the pot is dry.
  5. If the plant lacks water or moisture, the leaves will lose their firmness and begin to drop, but stll on the branch. Increase the amount of water gradually until the leaves again firm and stand up.
  6. On very hot and dry days, mist your rubber plant with warm water in the morning.
  7. I wipe the leaves of my rubber houseplant with a damp cloth to remove dust and make the leaves shiny.

Pruning the Plant

  1. Prune your rubber plant to keep in shape.
  2. Always cut the stems just above a leaf node.
  3. If the plant starts to get top-heavy, repot the rubber plant in a pot just a few inches wider and deeper than it was in.
  4. Overgrown plant can be pruned down to 3-4 leaf joints from the soil line.

How to Promote New Leaves and Branches

  1. If your plant has only one branch or shed most of its leaves and you want it make it bushy, trim the top of the branch with a sharp pair of pruning clippers to encourage branches. Two or more new branches will emerge at the end. Don't throw the stem cutting of the branch, but rather grow a new plant from this cutting.
  2. You can also promote new leaf by cutting a fine slit using a sharp knife just above the node where the leaf fell off.

Fertilization

Give a liquid feed in the growing season in spring and summer.

Pests and Diseases

Rubber plant is resistant to pest and diseases, if grown in well-lit areas, otherwise spider mites and mealybugs can attack the plant.

References

Zhengyi Wu, Zhe-Kun Zhou & Michael G. Gilbert, Ficus elastica, Flora of China, Missouri Botanical Garden, St. Louis, MO & Harvard University Herbaria, Cambridge, MA. Retrieved 29 August 2013.

Marigolds: How to Grow and Care for Marigold Flowers

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Marigold is a herbaceous plant, meaning it has thin stems without much wood and it grows fast and produces flowers in a short period of time and add color to the garden.

Marigolds are beautiful, strong fragrant flowers that are seen most commonly in the gardens. These are very easy to grow annual plants, which are widely grown throughout the world.

The flowers are used in making garlands and bracelets (mala and gajra) and in India, the marigold flowers known as Genda Phool are offered to Gods in temples and for decoration in weddings and festivals.

Tips For Growing Marigold


My garden displays orange and yellow marigold blooms from summer to almost winter, providing a colorful display of flowers. I am growing these flowers for many years now, they are very easy to take care of without any problems.
Orange marigolds growing in a pot
Orange marigolds
Orange Marigold propagated from seeds in a pot
Orange Marigold in a pot propagated from seeds
Yellow marigolds growing in a pot
Yellow marigolds
Tagetes patula French Marigold Flower
Tagetes patula French Marigold Flower


Varieties and Types of Marigolds

Marigolds come in different sizes and colors, yellow and orange being the most common.
Some of the major Marigold varieties are listed below:
  1. Tagetes erecta (African or American Marigolds): These marigolds are tall, erect-growing plants up to three feet in height producing large globe-shaped yellow or orange flowers, up to 5 inches diameter. This variety takes longer to produce flowers than the French type.
  2. Tagetes patula) (French Marigolds): These marigolds grow 5 inches to 18 inches high producing small red, orange, yellow or red - orange striped bicolor flowers of size up to 2 inch diameter.
  3. Tagetes tenuifolia (Signet Marigolds): The signet Marigolds produce single-flowered marigold grow up to 12 inch high, producing small richly colored yellow to orange colored edible flowers. The flowers can be used in salads, pasta and other dishes to get a lemony flavor.
  4. Triploid hybrids (Mule Marigolds): These marigolds are the hybrids of African and French marigolds. They grow from 12 to 18 inches high.  This type of marigolds are unable to produce seed, so they also know as mule marigolds.
Of all the marigold varieties, French marigolds and African marigolds are widely cultivated.

Taking Care of Marigolds

Marigolds do not need only a little care to ensure a display of colorful blooms in your garden for long time. Follow the following tips to get your marigolds bloom for several months.

Position:Where To Plant

Marigolds need lot of sunshine. Partial sun is also good.

Soil

Marigolds are not fussy about soil, but grow well in moderately fertile well-drained soil. Mix cow manure or compost and some river sand in the soil and mix well.

Propagating Marigolds : Planting Marigolds

Marigolds are easily propagated by seeds. You can buy marigold seed or seedlings from the garden shop. Alternatively, you can pluck a mature flower from your friend and start the plant as mentioned below.

Sowing from Seed or Dead Flower

  1. The first step for growing marigolds from seed is to sow the seeds.
  2. Sow the seeds directly in the soil. I start seeds in a seed growing tray or small pot at the end of spring. Just sprinkle the seeds and cover with a thin layer of soil and water well. If sowing with a dead flower, just chop off the leaves and open the bottom bud and spread it in the pot and cover with soil and water. Place in a warm place and keep damp.
  3. In cooler places, cover the tray with a plastic wrap and place it in a warm spot, such as  he top of the refrigerator.
  4. Seeds will germinate in 1-2 weeks. Once the marigold seedlings appear, remove the plastic wrap and move the tray in a bright place.
  5. Seedlings are easy to handle. Separate seedlings when they are about 2 inches tall and plant them in beds or pots.
  6. Space tall marigolds 1 to 2 feet apart and lower height type about half to one foot apart.
  7. Slugs and snails love these small seedlings, they will eat up all of the seedlings if not taken care of. Put some mulch around the seedlings so that they cannot reach there. I usually cover the seedlings with smaller pots during night.

Mulching

  1. Use a 2 inch layer of organic material such as sugarcane mulch on the soil around the stem of the plant. This helps to retain moisture in the soil.
  2. Mulching also protects the young tiny plants from slugs, snails, grasshoppers and frost.

Watering

  1. If planted in pots, marigold plants need daily watering, but do not need regular watering if growing in ground. Water the plants deeply until the water comes out of the drainage hole.  Allow the soil to dry between watering.
  2. Do not sprinkle water on the flowers and foliage.
  3. Always water the plants in the morning so that the water fallen on the foliage can dry up.

Fertilizers

  1. Marigolds do not require fertilizers if planted in a rich soil.
  2. I generally feed my marigolds with a liquid fertilizer high in potassium.
  3. Excess fertilizing will encourage increased growth of foliage but less number of flowers.

Pruning

No pruning is needed for marigold plants. You only need to remove dead flowers to encourage blooming. Actually they will bloom more profusely if you remove the dead flowers frequently.

Staking

I put a small stick and tie the stem by a soft polythene to protect the plant from strong winds. For taller variety of marigolds, staking is essential.

Pests and Diseases

Marigolds are relatively free of problems of insects and diseases. In very hot weather, spider mites, bacterial leaf spot, powdery mildew, leaf spot and root rot can be problem. I  never had any problem with my 25-30 marigold plants in pots which I plant each year.

How To Make Marigold Seeds

Cut a few dead flowers (with the bottom green buds) and keep them for the next year.

How To Prolong Blooms

You can increase the number of flowers and the length of blooming by regularly removing the spent blossoms.

How To Grow And Care Okra

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Okra or Okro (Botanical name: Abelmoschus esculentus Moench), is an annual summer growing vegetable of hibiscus mallow family (Malvaceae).

Okra is believed to have originated in West Africa, Ethiopia and South Asian. The okra plant is grown in tropical, subtropical and warm temperate regions through out the world. I am growing okra in Sydney and can be grown in other parts of Australia in summers.

India, Bangladesh, Afghanistan, Pakistan, Burma, Japan, Malayasia, Turkey, Iran, Western Africa, Brazil, Ghana, Ethiopian, Cyrpus, Yugoslavia and the Southern United States are the commerial growers of okra, India being the top producer.

Okra is also known as lady fingers, bhindi, bhendi, dherosh, ochro, bamia, ki ngombo, gumbo, etc.

Follow the step-by-step guide on growing okra with information on its flowers, pollination, fertilization, pests and diseases and harvesting and storing seeds.

Okra is a hairy, annual plant whose blooms are one of the most beautiful blooms in the vegetable garden. The okra plant produces edible green seed pods all summer long; when you harvest a pod, another grows in its place!

Okra Planting Guide

Okra is mainly propagated by seeds. It needs similar growing conditions as for tomatoes. It is easy to grow if you follow the guide and tips given below:

Companion Plants For Okra

  1. Melons, cucumbers, sweet peppers, eggplant, etc. are the best plants that can be grown along with okra. Sunflowers can be planted near okra plant to attract bees for okra pollination.
  2. Okra acts as a trap crop for stink bugs, which damage tomatoes, beans, peppers and other garden vegetables. Okra can repel stink bugs away from your garden.
Do not plant okra where you have grown potatoes, tomatoes, cabbage, broccoli, or similar vegetables.

Growing in Pots or Ground

Bhindi plants can be grown in garden bed or in a pot, even in a bucket or in any big container. If you plant in a pot, select a 12-14 inch deep pot with drainage holes at bottom.

If you have only small place to grow okra, you can grow it in pots on your terrace or balcony.

Position: Where To Plant Okra

Okra can be grown in hot humid areas with a preferable temperature between 25-35°C. It requires a long, warm and humid growing period. Frost and extremely low temperatures are the enemies of this plant.

Okra grows best in full sun. It needs at least 6 hours of full sun every day.

Preparing Soil

Okra needs nutrient rich fertile well-draining soil with a pH level 6.5 - 7.0. Dig the soil about 12 inch deep and break big chunks of soil. If the soil is clay, mix some river sand. Mix compost or cow manure or slow release fertilizer in the soil.

Sowing Okra Seeds

Okra seeds
Okra seeds

Okra Seed germination
Okra Seed germination
  1. Okra seedlings are difficult to transplant so it is better to sow the seeds directly in the garden.
  2. If you live in a warm area, you can sow seeds directly in the garden when the soil temperature is  25-35°C. Sow the seeds about 1 inch deep and 12 to 18 inches apart in rows separated by 3 feet.
  3. If you live in a cooler place, sow okra seeds in a small growing pot indoors 3 to 4 weeks before the last spring frost date. Put the pot in a warm sunny room during the germination period.
  4. When the weather warms up, transplant the seedlings outdoors when they grow to 2-3 leaves, 12 to 18 inches apart in rows separated by 3 feet.
  5. Keep the soil moist after sowing the seeds.
  6. The seeds will germinate in 2 to 10 days depending on the temperature. Soaking the seeds overnight prior to sowing will speed up germination.

Watering

  1. Keep the plants well watered. Plants in pots will need plenty of water daily. over-watering can cause the plants to start rotting.
  2. Do not wet the foliage. It's best to water okra in the morning.
  3. Apply a thick layer of mulch to keep the soil damp and to reduce the weeds. 

Fertilizers for Okra Plant

  1. Since okra needs plenty of nutrients to grow, add nutrients to the soil periodically. Absense of nutrients may result in okra plants that produce a less number of fruits.
  2. Rack some compost or bagged fertilizer or slow release fertilizer around the plants three times; first after planting the seedlings, then after the first pods begin to grow, and a third time aboutg a month. 
  3. You can feed with a liquid fertilizer periodically.

Okra Flowers and Pollination

Okra flowers
Okra flowers
  1. Okra has perfect flowers (male and female reproductive parts in the same flower) and is self-pollinating.
  2. The flowers are large around 2 inch in diameter, with five white to yellow petals with a red or purple spot at the base of each petal.
  3. Flowers open only once in the morning and close after pollination on the same day.
  4. Although insects are unnecessary for pollination and fertilization, the okra flowers are very attractive to bees and the plants are cross-pollinated by insects, such as bumblebees, when many varieties are grown in the same area and blossom at the same time.

Harvesting Okra

Okra Harvesting
Okra Harvesting
  1. Okra is rich in vitamin A and low in calories and is used as a vegetable and a natural thickener for soups, stew and gumbo. You may wonder, how often should okra be harvested.
  2. The okra pods will start to grow after about 8 weeks after planting. Okra pods can mature in just four days after flowering. Harvest the pods when they are 2 to 3 inches long. The longer the pod stays on the plant, the more tough it becomes, not suitable for eating. So okra requires frequent harvesting.
  3. Using a scissors, cut the okra pods where their stems meet the branches of the plant. You will notice that another okra pod will emerge soon from the same spot where you made the cut.
  4. You may wear gloves when you harvest the okra because the leaves and pods can irritate the skin.
  5. Harvesting daily or on alternate day during the peak season will encourage more fruits.
  6. Remove the lower leaves to increase production after the first harvest.
  7. Remove tough pods from the plant otherwise it will stop producing fruits.
  8. If the plants grow 6 - 8 high, you may prune one third of the top in late summer to get a late crop.

How can you tell when it is ready?

  1. Test the pods by toudhing, if they feel very soft, it means, they are good for harvesting.
  2. Look at the color of the pods. If it is whitish, then they are somewhat woody.
  3. If the pods open easily by pressing it at the middle, then it is too tough to eat.

Pests and Diseases of Okra

  • The okra plants are prone to damage by various insects, fungi, nematodes and viruses. The major insects are fruit and shoot borer, aphids, Japanese beetles, stink bugs, jassids, whiteflies, ants, corn earworms and flea beetles. The okra plants may also get many diseases affecting leaves, flowers and fruits.
  • Keep an eye out for pests. If you see the signs (holes in the leaves) of pest infestation, remove the bugs by hand or spray the leaves with neem oil spray or simple soap water to keep the pests away.

Storing Okra

  1. Fresh okra can be kept at room temperature/fridge for 5-8 days.
  2. You can freeze extra okra to use them during the winter.
  3. Put the uncooked pods into a freezer bag and keep them in the freezer.
  4. Some suggests to blanch them before freezing by putting them into boiling water for 3 minutes, then remove and plunge into iced water or under cold running water to halt the cooking process. Then chop them into small pieces and place on a tray and freeze them until firm. Transfer the firm okra pieces to a freezer bag for long-term storage.

Saving Okra Seeds

  1. Okra's seeds can be saved for next year planting. For this, at the end of the season allow some pods to remain on the plant to mature, dry out and turn brown, but not split open. At this stage, harvest these pods.
  2. Break the pods when you want to sow the seeds or take out the seeds and store in a air-tight bottle.
  3. The dried pods or seeds may be stored for up to five years.
  4. Seed can be saved from open-pollinated varieties. To avoid cross-pollination, the flowers can be isolated by placing a paper bag over them for 24 hours when they are open. If okra flowers are bagged, 100% of the flowers will set seed.

References

  1. University of Arkansas Division of Agriculture; Home Gardening Series, Okra; Craig R. Anderson, www.uaex.edu/Other_Areas/publications/pdf/FSA-6013.pdf
  2. Texas A&M Aggie Horticulture, Okra,
    aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/archives/parsons/vegetables/okra.html
  3. Missouri Botanical Garden: Pollination, www.mbgnet.net/bioplants/pollination.html
  4. Biology of Okra, Ministry of Environment and Forest, Governemnt of India, dbtbiosafety.nic.in/guidelines/okra.pdf

How to Grow Spanish Jasmine Plant : Chameli Plant Care

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Spanish Jasmine (Jasminum grandiflorum) is the most widely used in perfumes. It is native to South Asia but now grown in many parts of the world, specially in Grasse, the French capital of perfumery. Spanish Jasmine  is also known as Royal jasmine, French jasmine,  Catalonian jasmine; and Chameli (climber, bel), Jaji, Malati or Mallika and Juhi in Hindi, and Chambeli in Urdu.

Follow the growing tips and care guide for Spanish jasmine - Chameli in pots and ground, indoors and outdoors with tips to watering, fertilization, and pests and diseases.

The chameli flowers are very fragrant, the blooms send their fragrances in early mornings and evenings, not only in the garden but far away to neighbors area. This is one of the most cultivated types of jasmine. The other popular jasmine variety is Arabian jasmine (Jasminum sambac) or mogra.
Chameli Flowers used to make Gajra and Garlands
Chameli Flowers used to make
Gajra and Garlands

A gajra made of fresh aromatic and beautiful chameli flowers is one of the most likable things for the women.

It is believed that to produce 1 kilo of chameli essence 7 million flowers are estimated to be needed.

The vine Spanish jasmine looks similar to the Poet Jasmine (Jasminum officinale forma affine), the difference is that Jasminum officinale has smaller flowers with broader petals.

Information For Growing and Caring Spanish Jasmine

Jasminum grandiflorum is a deciduous shrub growing to about 5 m long with leaves composed of small leaflets of five to seven. The branch tips borne the clusters of unique sweet fragrant white flowers with five lobes 1.5–2.5 cm long.

The vine is evergreen in frost-free areas but semi-evergreen and deciduous in cooler areas.

Periodic pruning is necessary to control the vines. Prune the plant in late summer or early fall when flowering slows. Remove any damaged or diseased vines as they appear.

How to Propagate a Spanish Jasmine from cuttings


Propagation of Chameli, Rooted Spanish Jasmine from cuttings
Propagation of Chameli,
Rooted Spanish Jasmine from cuttings
The propagation techniques for Spanish jasmine are the same as for Arabian jasmine, viz. from cuttings and layering method.

Just cut a thin branch and put its node in the damp soil in a small pot. Cover the pot by a polythene bag and place in shade. New roots will strike in a few weeks.

Soil

Chameli jasmine need well-drained fertile. Add some river sand to the soil to make it free-draining and add some compost or cow manure to make it rich.


Where to Grow? In Pots or Garden Bed?

Spanish jasmine can be grown both in pots and garden bed. Advantage of planting in a container is that it can be moved indoors in a verandah or balcony. The container should have holes at the bottom to provide drainage for extra water.

The plant indoors should receive 10-12 hours of artificial light if direct sunlight is not available.

Growing Outdoors

While planting the jasmine outdoors, select a location where it receives direct sun light for 4-5 hours a day, however, it can grow well in partial shade also. Also keep in mind that jasmine is a vine which grows quite thick and quickly. Mostly people grow it on a corner of the building to climb on the fence. You can use a trellis if growing in a pot or where a fence is not available.

Planting

Spanish jasmine or Chameli Flowers
Spanish jasmine or Chameli Flowers
  1. Buy a small jasmine plant from your garden shop or grow your own by propagating Spanish jasmine from a cutting as mentioned above.
  2. Dig a hole twice the diameter of the pot of the plant, but the depth should be the same as the plant in the pot.
  3. Remove the plant from the pot and place in the hole and fill the hole with soil.
  4. Put a 2 inch layer of sugarcane or any other mulch around the plant leaving some clearance near the stem.
  5. Put a trellis somewhat away from the roots so as not to damage them. When the chameli plant grows, tie the stems to the trellis to train them to move up. Guiding the climber on trellis will protect it from falling down on to the ground when it becomes heavy with flowers. 
  6. For growing more than one plant, keep a spacing of about 3 m between the plants. 

Watering

  1. Keep your jasmine vine moist, but do not overwater. Allow the soil to dry out between watering.
  2. Over-watering may cause root rot. The plant needs to be watered more during summer to prevent dryness of the soil.

Fertilization

Feed you Spanish jasmine vine every fortnight in the growing months - spring to summer. I feed my plant with a balance liquid fertilizer after flowers have finished to encourage new growth and new flowers.

If the jasmine plant is growing outdoors in ground, rack the fertilizer in the soil leaving about 10 inch area around the main stem. Water the soil deeply.

Pruning

  1. Pinch dead blossoms off of your vine during the growing period to encourage new growth.
  2. Prune your jasmine vine heavily before growing time starts, in late winter. You can prune top two third of each branch to keep it from becoming too heavy. 
  3. Remove any stems growing out from the base. 
  4. Cut all the dead stems and branches.

Flowering

  1. Following are the tips to get healthy flowers on chameli climber.
  2. The Spanish will produce blooms from the second year.
  3. Flowers should be picked in the early morning when they are the most fragrant.
  4. Feed the vine with a liquid feed high in potassium every third week will encourage flowers. 
  5. Follow the pruning tips as mentioned above. Cut the growing tips of the branches if there is no sign of blooms on them. This will encourage new growth and new flowers buds.
Jasminum grandiflorum, Spanish Jasmine (Chameli) Vine
Spanish Jasmine (Chameli) Vine

Pests and Disease Control

  1. Jasmine plants can be affected by pests like aphids, caterpillar, spider mites, etc. and fungus disease. To avoid these problems, always water your Spanish jasmine properly without wetting the leaves.&
  2. Ensure that the vine receives sunlight for 4-5 hours daily. 
  3. I treat the infested plant with an insecticide, fungicide or neem spray regularly.

How To Grow Indian Tinda Gourd

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The tinda (family Cucurbitaceae, Genus Praecitrullus), called Indian round gourd or apple gourd or Indian baby pumpkin or tinda gourd, is a squash-like cucurbit of genus Praecitrullus and is indigenous to India. Tinda is an annual vegetable plant popular in India, Pakistan and and in other South Asian countries.

Indian Tinda, Apple Gourd
Indian Tinda, Apple Gourd
It is known as tindsi, tindi, tinday, dhemase, meha in Rajasthan, Punjab, Maharastra, Nepal and different languages and places. It is similar to a summer squash and is used as curries, spicy stuffed vegetable, spicy stuffed vegetable, pickles and many gourmet dishes, even its seeds are roasted and eaten. A number of tinda curry recipes are available.

The fruit is spherical ball about 5–8 cm in diameter with light green color and about 50 gram in weight.

The plant is, as with all cucurbits, a prolific vine, and is grown as an annual.

How To Grow & Care Tinda Plant

Tinda gourds are fast growing vines that can grow up to about 1.5 m long. They are extremely easy to grow and produce tinda gourds two or three weeks after flowering. The seed sowing to harvest time is about 45 days.

Follow the tips on how to grow tinda in pots or ground.

Soil

Well draining fertile soil with a pH between 6.5 to 7.5. Add some river sand to make the soil draining and add compost to enrich it.

When to Plant

Tinda gourds grow best in tropical or sub-tropical climates, so plant in ate spring to early summer. You can start the seeds indoors, if you live in a colder region, and transplant the seedlings outdoors after the final frost. The soil temperature needs to be at least 25°C for the seeds to germinate.

Position

Select a Sunny location. You can plant in a large container, at least 40 cm diameter with many draining holes at its bottom.

Planting

  1. The tinda seeds should be planted in one foot (30 cm) diameter mound of dirt, spaced 4-6 feet (1.25-2 m) apart. Or plant seeds in rows about twelve inches apart.
  2. Sow the seed at a depth of about an inch (2.5 cm), keep damp. The seeds will germinate in 1-3 weeks depending on the temperature.
  3. I don't have so much space in my kitchen garden, so I plant tinda in pots. You can soak the seeds overnight before planting to speed up germination. I also put a tall trellis in the pot to train the vines to climb vertically up. This vertical growing methods saves lot of space.
  4. Keep the vines not overly dense to provide tinda gourds exposure to sunlight and air for best results.

Watering

After the seedlings germinate, they can be watered only once a week.
The tinda vine thrives in warm and dry conditions.

Harvesting Tinda Gourds

Tinda Flowers
  1. Tinda Flowers: The tinda vine produces flower within 3-4 weeks. The flowers are 8-10 mm in diameter. The female flower has a small round bulb at its bottom.
  2. The male and female flowers are separate which pollinate and produce smooth fruits ready to pick after 2-3 weeks.
  3. The tindas are ready to be harvested when they become round with a bright green color and a distinctive flat top.
  4. It is interesting to note that new gourds will continue to grow in the place of the one you taken it off.

Pests and Diseases

Tinda plant is attacked by insects like beetles, fruit flies and white flies. seeds and plants are attractive to Birds, bees, caterpillars and butterflies can damage the leaves and fruits. Spray neem spray or garlic spray to control these problems. I usually spray neem oil and cover the fruits by polythene bags.
Tinda vine growing in a pot. Note the good size fruits.
Tinda vine growing in a pot. Note the good size fruits.
The picture shows Punjabi tinda growing in a pot, actually a bucket. You can use any container.


How To Preserve Seeds

Cover a healthy looking large size tinda fruit with a paper or polythene bag and let it mature on the vine. When the fruit becomes over-ripe (color changing to white), pluck the fruit and place in shade to dry. Take out the seeds when the fruit is completely dry, and preserve the dried seeds in an air-tight bottle.

15 Powerful Medicinal Plants For Home Garden

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I have scores of plants in my garden growing in beds and pots. Many of these plants produce beautiful display of flowers, besides they are important medicinal plants including powerful healing herbs. You might have some of these plants at your home garden that can be used for some medical problems.

As we all know plants have been used for thousands of years for medicinal purposes. Most medicine which we buy from chemists are derived from plants manufactured by pharmaceutical companies.

The medicinal plants including flower plants and herbs are easy to grow at home. They can treat a wide range of illnesses without any major side effects. Next time when you see the signs of any illness, go to your garden and the chance is that its cure is already available there.

Growing such a garden means you are having a first-aid box for home remedies and you need not run to a Chemist for minor ailments.

15 Most Powerful Medicinal Plants : Must For Every Home Garden


Following is a list of plants that have the powerful medicinal value that you can grow at your home, even in pots. Start cultivating your medicinal garden today with these powerful healing herbs.

1. Aloe Vera

Aloe Vera is a miracle medicinal plant.
Aloe Vera is a miracle medicinal plant.

It is easy to grow aloe vera in pots or bags at home. Use a well drained soil and grow in sun. Growing Aloe Vera

It is a plant that should be a must in your home garden.

The sap from aloe vera is extremely useful to speed up the healing of cuts, wounds, burns. Just cut the thick lower part of the aloe vera plant and rub the affected part.

It is also beneficial for reducing inflammation and treating eczema.

Drinking Aloe vera juice can be helpful in treating digestive problems, constipation, ulcerative colitis, and improving appetite.

The Aloe vera keeps away eye problems and headaches.

2. Camomile

Camomile medicinal plant
Camomile can treat body pain.
Chamomile or camomile includes several daisy-like plants of the family Asteraceae that are commonly used to make 'cure-all' herbal teas to be used as  remedies for many health problems.

Camomile tea is a very rich source of antioxidants, providing health benefits.
It is also good for digestive system.

Camomile has a soothing and calming effect which helps in sleep and combat stress.

It is used to treat several body pains like toothache, earache, pain in shoulder and back, etc.

Recent research has shown that drinking the camomile tea may help women live longer.

3. Comfrey

Comfrey medicinal plant
Comfrey medicinal plant
Comfrey herb contains a compound called allantoin, a cell proliferant that speeds up the natural replacement of body cells.

Comfrey can be used to treat broken bones and heal open wounds faster.

It can also be good in treating arthritis, burns, acne, eczema, sprains, cuts, bruises, sores, gastric ulcers and bronchial problems.

Comfrey, however, is not recommended to taken internally because it contains trace amounts of cancer causing alkaloids. Comfrey tea

4. Echinacea

Echinacea medicinal plant
Echinacea medicinal plant
Echinacea plants produce beautiful flowers in summer and are easy to grow and propagte.

Echinacea can stimulate the body’s immune system.

It has antibiotic properties.

Echinacea is used to treat colds, bee stings, snakebites, wounds, burns, migraines and sinus infections, etc.



The side effects of Echinacea are very rare, mild and reversible.





5. Fenugreek

Fenugreek leaves and seeds have health benefits.
Fenugreek leaves and seeds have health benefits.
Fenugreek is a herb whose leaves and seeds both are eaten in India for many centuries. It is beneficial in diabetes, lowering blood cholesterol level, gaining weight, treating inflammation, curing ulcers, increasing lactation, etc.
Growing fenugreek

6. Ginger

Ginger is a powerful medicinal house plant.
Ginger is a powerful medicinal house plant.
Ginger is a spice that must be included in any home garden. You can grow it even if you don't have enough space because you can grow ginger in pots. Growing ginger

Ginger thrives best in shades so you can even keep the plant in your kitchen.

The ginger plant can be consumed fresh, dried and powdered form. It is best for indigestion, nausea, motion sickness, dry cough, cold, sore throat, and many more.

7. Lemon Balm

Lemon balm medicinal plant
Lemon balm medicinal plant
The lemon balm plant has leaves of lemon and mint scent. It can be grown in pots in summer.

It is used for insect bites, gout, herpes and sores by rubbing the crushed leaves on the skin.

Infusion of the leaves with water are known to treat colds, fevers, headaches, indigestion, depression, col sores, anxiety and thyroid problem.

The lemon balm is an effective treatment for thrush herpes around both the mouth and genitals.





8. Marigold

Marigold medicinal plant
Marigold plants are perfect for home cures.
Marigolds are beautiful colorful flowers that you can grow in almost any type of soil. You don't need to be an expert to grow these flowers in your garden. Growing marigold plants

An antioxidant, lutein in marigold can reduce tumors, finds a recent research from Washington State University .

Marigolds work as an anti-inflammatory. The deep-orange flowered pot marigold variety work as a remedy for skin problems, like irritated skin, bites, stings, sprains, wounds, sore eyes, varicose veins.

Internally it is used to treat fevers and chronic infections.

A tea made of the marigold petals tones up circulation and eases varicose veins, if taken regularly.

You can apply crushed stems of the pot marigold to corns and warts to easily remove them.

Marigolds can also be used as a pest repellent.

9. Neem

Neem medicinal plant
Neem medicinal plant
The Neem tree, known for its healing and health properties grows in India widely.  Its leaves looks like those of curry leaf plant, which is also called as sweet neem plant (curry patta).

The Neem tree grows to very high and dense tree, so it is not possible to keep it as a house garden plant. So find it in your neighborhood.

Its leaves, fruit, bark and oil are useful for many health problems.

It can be useful for for eye disorders, intestinal worms, stomach upset, loss of appetite, skin ulcers, fever, diabetes, gum disease, and liver problems.

Neem is helpful for in combating bacterial infections, as in acne, boils and ulcers.
The neem oil from the leaves is an insect repellent. Its stem is very good for brushing teeth.

The neem leaves are good for washing hair and killing lice.

10. Peppermint

Mint, peppermint is a miracle herb.
Peppermint is a miracle herb.
Peppermint is probably the oldest medicine from home garden. Grow this herb in your garden. Growing mint

Peppermint is high in vitamin A, vitamin C and manganese.

Make a paste of plant leaves and rub on the skin to soothe and relax the muscles.

Peppermint tea is used for upset stomach and flatulence. This tea is also useful to reduce irritable bower syndrome and fever.

11. Sage (Salvia)

sage medicinal plant
Sage medicinal plant
Sage is a healing herb which can be grown easily in you home garden to enjoy blue, purple, white and pink flowers and leaves.

Sage is anti-inflammatory and also boosts the immune system. It is beneficial in indigestion, flatulence, anxiety, depression, excessive lactation, female sterility, menopausal cramps, etc.

It can also be used for the treatment of insect bites, skin infections, and throat, mouth and gum infections, etc.

This herb should be an aesthetically pleasing addition to your garden.

12. St. John's Wort (Hypericum perforatum)

St John’s Wort medicinal plant
St John’s Wort medicinal plant
St John’s Wort is a perennial plant that thrives in sun, producing bright, yellow flowers in summer.

The glossy leaves and yellow flowers of St. John's wort can be used as an effective treatment for depression and anxiety.

It may also increase appetite and concentration.

Some people taking St. John's wort have reported side effects such as diarrhea, nausea, dizziness, dry mouth, reduced sex drive and headache.




13. Tea Tree

Medicinal Tea tree
Medicinal Tea tree 
The tea tree oil is anti fungal, antibacterial and antiseptic, so it has many medical applications.

The tea tree is a plant that can be used for medicinal purposes like to relieve headaches, to treat acne, insect bites and cold sores.

 The tea tree oil is also useful for the treatment of abdominal ulcers, minor burns, cystitis, thrush, vaginal infections, warts, etc.

You can keep tea tree oil at home.








14. Thyme

thyme medicinal plant
Thyme medicinal plant
Grow this medicinal herb in your home garden with ease.

The thyme herb plant does not need much space and can be grown in containers.

Thyme contains thymol, which is a potent antiseptic and antibacterial.

Thyme can be used to treat coughs, congestion, indigestion and gas.

It is also a useful medical plant to treat acne, sore throat, arthritis and respiratory problems.




15. Turmeric

Turmeric has medicinal values in many diseases including cancer.
Turmeric has medicinal values in many diseases.
Turmeric spice has been in use in India since ages to treat several ailment.

It is good for the prevention of cancer, high blood pressure, arthritis, fungal infections, ulcers, etc. Turmeric powder is used for skin and beauty treatments.

Besides its several health benefits, the turmeric plant looks great in a home garden. Its long leaves add beautiful color to the garden.

The turmeric is quite easy to grow in summer, even in containers. Growing turmeric at home

How To Grow A Mango Tree From Seed

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Mangoes can be grown from seeds and grafting. Mango plants from the garden nursery are usually grafted and will fruit within 3-4 years. Mango tree grown from seeds may take larger, 5-7 years.

The seedling mango trees have stronger root system and grows vigorously than the grafted trees. But they do not grow true to seed, even if you have planted the seed of a good tasting mango until the tree is 7-10 years old, when it produces fruits.

Step-by-Step Guide For Growing A Mango Tree From A Seed

Selection of Seed
Growing mangoes from seed is extremely easy and care for. However, the selection of seed is very important. I grew my first mango tree from a seed about 20 years ago, but that did not produce any fruit for the next 12 years. At that time, I was not knowing that that the seed should come from an polyembryonic variety.

Mangoes are of monoembryonic or polyembryonic seed varieties. Mono-embryonic mango type produces one seedling per seed, but the fruit they produce are not true to the parent type, so they need to be grafted.

If you want to grow a mango tree from a seed, the seed should come from poly-embryonic variety. A polyembryonic seed is one which develops two or more embryos from a single fertilized egg. Such a seed produces a number of shoots, which are clones of the mother tree.

One year old mango tree grown from a seed.
One year old mango tree grown from a seed.

There are many mango varieties which are polyembryonic type. Some of these varieties in Asia and Australia are Kensington Pride or Bowen, R2E2, Bullocks Heart, Bundaberg Late, Kasturi, Champagne, Honey, Altaufo, Manila, Chandrakaran, Cathamia, Baramasia, MA 173, etc. which you can buy from market. The mangoes grown from the seeds of theses mangoes will be true to type. The suitable varieties of polyembryonic type in USA are Florigon, Laris, Mekong, Ono, Orange, Samini, Simmonds, Torbet. Wester, etc. The Newsletter of Sub-Tropical Fruit Club of Queensland gives a detailed list of polyembryonic type of mangoes in various countries.

I grew a Bowen (Kensington Pride - KP) mango tree, which is well suited for seed growing because it produces a vigorous tree, and fruits reliably similar to the parent tree. It took 5 years for the tree planted from seed to bear fruit. The R2E2 mango variety produces off types when grafted or seed propagated.
The detailed steps are given below. Whatever seed type you choose to grow, the steps are the same.
  1. The best time to grow mangoes from seed is the beginning of summer.
  2. The most important step is the seed selection. Buy a good quality ripe mango and eat it, remove as much flesh as you can.
  3. You can directly sow the seed in ground in a sunny place. I like to sow the seed in a pot and then transplant the seedling to a larger pot or into the ground.
  4. Fill a pot, about 10 inch diameter with good quality potting mix. Sow the seed about 3 inch deep and water well. Place the pot in a warm sunny place, keep moist.
  5. Germinated mango seed
    Germinated mango seed

    Many shoots from the germinated Kensigton mango seed
    Many shoots from the germinated
    Kensigton mango seed
  6. The seed will germinate in a few weeks. You will see that the seed will sprout into several seedlings, all identical to each other (except one) and to the parent tree. They are actually the clones. Usually the centrally-located shoot which is the most vigorous shoot than all the other shoots is different and should be removed.
  7. When the seedlings are about 4-5 inch tall, cut all but one of the seedlings to grow to a mango tree.
  8. You could gently separate each seedling and grow them all to have many mango trees.
  9. Or, you can carefully split open a mango seed and take out small bean shaped seeds. You can plant them individually to get many trees.

Transplanting

Transfer the seedling when the thickness at its base of the trunk becomes the size of about 2 inch diameter and about 10 inch high. At this size, it will have established a good healthy root system.

If you want a small tree, transfer it in a large pot. The advantage of growing mango the tree in the pot is that it can be managed easily and can moved in a sunny place or indoors when the temperature drops.


Transplanting in Ground

  1. Dig a hole about three times the size of the root ball. Add potting mix and some garden in the hole. Place the seedling in the hole, add the soil to fill the hole and water it thoroughly.
  2. Water your mango plant regularly.
  3. Do not over fertilize, otherwise there will be more leaves and less fruit produce. Take care of your mango tree. mango tree care

References

1. Sub-Tropical Fruit Club of Qld Inc.: Mangoes – Polyembryonic, http://stfc.org.au/mangoes-polyembryonic
2. Y. Aron, H. Czosnek, and S. Gazit. Polyembryony in Mango (Mangifera indica L.) Is Controlled by a Single DOminant Gene. Horticultural Science. 1998. 33(7):1241-1242
3. Sub-Tropical Fruit Club of Qld. Inc Newsletter February – March 2007

Starting an Azalea Plant From a Cutting

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Azaleas are evergreen shrubs which produce 3-6 inch clusters of white, pink, red, yellow, orange, purple flowers early in spring and early summer. They thrive in shade and do not tolerate hot sun.

Azaleas can be propagated from seeds cuttings, layering, grafting or by tissue culture.

Cuttings of most azaleas can be rooted quite easily. The new azaleas starting from cuttings are the exact copies (clones) of the parent azalea plant.

While the evergreen azalea cuttings are easy to root, the cuttings of deciduous azaleas are somewhat difficult to root. The difference between evergreen and deciduous azaleas is that while evergreen azaleas retain their foliage round the year, the deciduous azaleas lose their leaves in the fall.

Propagation of Azaleas From Cuttings

The following guide is a step-by-step procedure on how most azaleas can easily be started from a cutting and reproduced. The propagation steps are the same for both the type of azaleas, the difference is in the selection of cutting as described below.
Propagated Azalea started from a Cutting
Propagated Azalea in a pot started from a Cutting

1. Taking The Azalea Cutting

Select a healthy, disease-free and insect-free azaleas shrub. The plant should not be water stressed, preferably they should be well-watered two days before taking the cuttings.

Cuttings should always be taken in the early morning.

For Evergreen Azaleas

  1. Semi-hardwood cutting is taken to root. Select a branch which is somewhere between soft and brittle. Such a stem will not break like a matchstick and will not bend like rubber. You can find such a cutting after the spring flush of growth is finished.
  2. Take cuttings 4 to 5 inches long from the ends of branches.
  3. Make a fresh cut just below a node. Remove the flower buds, if any.
  4. Remove all leaves from the bottom one third and the top tip of the cutting, leaving 3-4 leaves.

For Deciduous Azaleas

The cuttings from deciduous azaleas should be taken earlier when the wood is still soft and green.

2. Care of Cuttings

If you are not planting the cuttings immediately, then place them in a plastic bag. To prevent drying of the cuttings, put the bag in fridge.

3. The Soil Rooting Containers & Medium

  1. Take a small pot with many drainage holes at its bottom. wash it with soap and water and then submerse it briefly in water containing a few drops of bleach.
  2. Fill the container with a well-drained rooting medium. I take equal amount of potting mix and river sand and mix them.
  3. Water well the pot and keep aside for about half an hour so as to drain all the excess water.

4. Planting The Cuttings

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  1. Cut the lower end of the stem just below a node. Scrap the one inch of the stem with a sharp knife to encourage faster and denser rooting.
  2. Put this end in a rooting hormone powder or a liquid rooting hormone. Shake off any excess hormone. You can use a natural rooting hormone like willow water or honey. It may be mentioned that the evergreen azaleas root well without any hormone, but the rooting hormone will increase the chances of rooting in deciduous azalea cuttings.
  3. Use a pencil and make a hole in the rooting medium and insert the cutting in it, about one third its length without pushing. Ensure that the node and the scraped portion are under the soil. Firm the soil against the cutting.
  4. I put 3-4 cuttings in the same pot, keeping them spaced 2-3 inches apart.
  5. Do not water, the soil is wet and the stem has no roots yet. 
  6. I always enclose the pot in a clear plastic bag and tie its end to keep the inside humidity close to 100%. This will prevent the cuttings to dry out. Alternatively, you can use a 2 liter soft drink bottle whose bottom has been removed. Invert this bottle on the pot and close the cap.
  7. Place the pot in bright indirect light. With soil moisture, there will be condensation on the plastic covering.
  8. Open the bag after about 8-10 days and see that the soil is moist, if not then add 2-3 drops of water. Over watering will rot the stems. In fact, I don't add any water for 20 days. the watering is needed only after roots are developed.
  9. In 5-7 weeks the cuttings will begin to form roots. Check for rooting by gently tugging on the cuttings. If resistance is felt, the cuttings are becoming successfully rooted.
  10. Remove the cap from the 2-liter bottles or make holes in the plastic bag covers to lower the humidity.
  11. After one week take out the pot and continue it to keep in shade, keeping the plant moist.
  12. Next week allow the new azalea plant the morning sun for 1-2 hours. Gradually increase the morning sun. Keep the plant moist.

5. Transplanting the Young Plants

  1. Plants can be separated and transplanted when 3-4 sets of new leaves have grown. Choose a shaded  place or which receive only the morning sun in garden, if planting in ground.
  2. I press the pot from outside from all sides to loose the soil inside. Gently upside down the pot holding the stems in your hand so that all the cuttings come out of the pot. Because the potting soil is sandy, all the cuttings will be separate. If not, then dip the cuttings with soil in a deep pot with water filled in and press the soil with your finger. This will separate the rooted cuttings.
  3. Feed sea weed solution.
    Pink Azalea in a pot started from a cutting
    Pink Azalea in a pot started from a cutting
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